South Africa - Port Elizabeth

On arrival by air in Port Elizabeth, we picked up a hire car and travelled a short distance along the coast to Trevor & Debs' house, interestingly called "Trust Me" by him in memory of his architect's favourite saying during its design and construction!  They treated us to a braai (barbeque) with enormous steaks, on their patio overlooking the sea and we saw dolphins and whales while enjoying it!

We took an inland route west from T&D's, very scenic through fruit growing country and into the hills.  Turning south towards Knysna on the coast, I ignored a road closed sign to Jean's chagrin and carried on down a very winding dirt road for over 80 km.  It took us through Prince Alfred's Pass and was quite dramatic, if a little steep at the sides at times!  It was worth it and it wasn't really closed.  We emerged from it and headed for the waterfront in Knysna where we enjoyed a very pleasant late afternoon lunch.  We then discovered our guest house at The Heads (not naval toilets but a narrow channel to the sea) had no water!  Off to another, which was really nice and not far away, where we bumped into a couple we had met on the Blue Train!

Rain fell the next day and our plan to make a few stops to enjoy the more direct coastal route back from Knysna were abandonned.

Back with T&D, we were treated to a potjie - a cast iron pot in which chicken and vegetables are slow cooked over a fire.  I had a few lessons, but it seems the process of cooking, over a few beers, is as much the enjoyment as the end product!

But, the centre piece of our visit here was the Sevens.  It took place in a fine new stadium, but the crowds were quite thin both days.  Beautiful weather enabled some fine rugby with New Zealand taking the cup, quite easily, Wales the Plate, Australia the Bowl and Spain the Shield.

We went Springboks for the day!

On our last full day, we paid a visit to the local Seaview Lion Park to see some white lions, bigguns too, lion and tiger cubs, leopard cubs and a black leopard.  It's a sanctuary, rather than a zoo, where the preservation of threatened animals is the goal, and it is staffed by mostly US volunteers who work for just their keep, very wortwhile.

So, albeit it in captivity, we did manage to see the Big Five during our fabulous trip, I am every grateful to Trevor & Debs for suggesting the visit during our US trip, and for being such great hosts while we were with them.

We had also hoped to be taken flying by Trevor, in his Cessna 140, but the weather and time conspired to prevent this.  However, we did have a look and a sit in the cockpit.  That's real flying!

South Africa - Gorah Elephant Camp

Gorah Elephant Camp is a franchise within the Addo Elephant Park and it is a truly stunning place, an 18th century farmhouse that has been developed with luxury tents with all mod cons.  The Lodge looks out over open plains with hartebeest, zebra, wart hogs, kudu and ostrich nearby.  It is unfenced so we could walk around during the day from tent to lodge, but had to be accompanied after dark, while the animals hunt!

We were just in time for high tea before heading out for an evening game drive.  It was cool and the gluwein that awaited our return was very welcome!

The bush is quite thick although not that high, so sightings where there is bush rely on the animals being close to the road.  Kudu, hartebeest, eland (the largest antelope), elephants, zebra, wart hogs, ostrich, many different birds, buzzards, owls were seen on different drives.  Across a valley at one point, we saw two male black rhinos facing off over a boundary dispute.  They stare and motion at each others, often for long periods and mostly without fighting, until one backs down.  Fortunately, we saw the conclusion, which was without bloodshed!

 Hartebeest

 Eland, the biggest antelope

Rhinos in boundary face off

 Kudu

We stopped above the elephant's water hole while Devon, our guide and driver, laid out a table with drinks and nibbles - how good is that?

Jean was getting cold!

Our first early morning drive was miserable in rain, cold and drizzle, unusal weather they said!  But, we did see some elephants up close and a hearty breakfast awaited our return.  The rest of the day was chilly and we spent some of it trying to keep warm, buying extra clothing from the shop, and eating a light (only 3 courses) lunch and high tea before the evening drive.

The evening drive started off with  hot water bottles in the land cruiser - tough eh, but a nice touch.  The highlight was  following a black rhino to a water hole, which we looked down on from a small dead end hillock.  The rhino had watched us all the way, and listened.  Perhaps we made too much noise when we exited the vehicle to watch it, as it decided we were to be challenged.  Back in the vehicle, we waited as he trundled up the hill and then confronted the vehicle from behind.  It was only afterwards that, with us sitting on the back seats, Jean became aware that all that was between her and his rather large main horn was the cushion on her seat, just above his head!  Devon said it was the best rhino sighting he had experienced and, had he charged us, he would have pushed us over the edge of where we were parked!

Rhino watching us

 Now watching us watching him!

He's had enough and comes to investigate

Yep, there they are/it is, I'll have it now!

Oops, hmmm, not so sure.............

He backed down, eventually, but only after several confrontations

He was full size, just that the camera wide angle makes him look smaller.

On our last morning, with the temperature rising and the sun shining, we first encountered a lioness, crouched in a shallow waterhole, watching three wart hogs coming close.  She apparently was low on energy due to not feeding for several days, so let them pass unaware of her, as they were just a little too far away.  Then she rose and we got some views of her up close as she moved off.  Two other wart hogs on a hill were the next target as she started to stalk slowly.  Oddly, they approached her until one seemed to have an "oh sh*t, it's a lion" moment and they then ran the other way.  She chased rather half-heartedly, then stopped, disappearing into the bush shortly afterwards.

 Lioness lies in wait in waterhole

Wart hogs walk by unaware

She gave up, they were too far away

Ah, I see two more!

Is that a lion?

Damn, lost them too!

Oh well, I'll just go for a walk

We saw a couple of lone elephants before the finale of finding a small herd, including a couple of infants, at a water hole.  They were drinking and bathing and we spent some time watching until a couple of bulls joined in, including the largest in the Addo Park, sporting very impressive tusks.  It was a fitting end to a very good visit to Gorah Camp with good sightings, despite some chilly wet weather.

After another hearty breakfast, we drove back to Trevor & Debbie's with a stop at the surfing beach at Jeffreys Bay along the way.