Tunisia 24

This was the last link up with Hugh & Tammy while on their marathon travels, before they set off for a couple more stops and head home to Australia in late Jan '25. It was originally intended that Jean would join us on the trip but she was unable to do so.

Our route will take us overland, starting and finishing in Tunis. Although Tunisia sells itself as a beach and sunshine tourist destination, our emphasis was to be on its history and culture. It is part of the Maghreb, the western Arab world of Tunisia, Algeria and Morocco. Though it is relatively small in size, Tunisia has great environmental diversity due to its north–south extent. Its east–west extent is limited. The Atlas mountains encroach to its northwest but the south falls away to the Al Jifarah Plain, which borders Libya to the east and the Sahara to the south and southwest.

On leaving the airport, it all seemed familiar, even though I had never been to Tunisia - the sounds of the Muezzin, the smells, the traffic competing for space and the horns! But, it was clearly not exactly the memories of other Arab countries I have visited.The dress was more mixed, more Western on balance, the features were more varied and the heights, particularly of some ladies. Creeping through the narrow cobbled streets near the hotel, I was struck by the smell of baking bread and pedestrians carrying bags of baguettes. The French influence was to be seen all around.

Our first venture out was a walk around the immediate area of our hotel in the Medina (Old Town). Lovely cobbled streets, leading out to a major square with Government buildings, mosques, the central market and interesting little shops and cafes along the way.

Hugh & Tammy outside our hotel

Lots of cats everywhere

Chechia (African) souvenir hats

Real Chechias being ironed

The weather was rather blustery and there was a little rain at times. We dined out at the Dar el Jeld restaurant next door, which read to be highly rated. After a rather gruff and disjointed welcome, we started to walk out, but were persuaded to resume. The famed Tunisian food turned out to a deep disappointment with lamb that must have been walked miles to slaughter in its later yearsbut did discover a fine red Tunisian red, Kurudis!

Starters were ok

Next day was all about Carthage and its mixed history from Berber, Phoenician and Roman times, starting with the ruins of Carthage. Initially destroyed and buried by the Romans, but then rebuilt by them. However, the remains are scattered and much is disconnected as the rebuilding was lacking.

Sanctuary Punic

Headstones of infants
immolated by the Phoenicians
in child sacrifice

Cremation chamber

Punic Port of Carthage

Roman Baths
an enormous complex with duplicated
male and female chambers of hot and cold
rooms, gyms and a pool

Roman Aquaduct

There were many sites of ruins the area consisting of broken columns and other bits of structures.

Couple about to be wed

Sidi Bousaid
with its regulation white & blue

Exception - Government building!

Sidi Bousaid marina

5* Hotel Blue

We enjoyed grilled fish for lunch in Popeye's restaurant in 'Little Sicily' overlooking a pretty beach, an Bamblouini, very sugary local doughnuts, in Sidi Bousaid.

Then, it was onwards out of Tunis, first the township of Testour, where we visited an interesting mosque, which had been built to serve both the Musim and the Jewish communities for worship. The clocktower features each of the Berber style, the Star of David and Islamic style. It as here that faith was restored in humanity. Hugh discovered he had lost his phone, some time after doing so. Anis, our guide, rang it from Tammy's and a chap answered who was waiting at the mosque, probably over half an hour since we had been there. He handed it over, saying that he had waited for the call, tapped his heart when thanked, and Anis said there is no crime, well!

Coffee in the market square
in Testour

Lunch at a family home
in Teboursouk

Onward to Dougga, or Thugga, a Berber, Punic and Roman settlement and UNESCO world heritage site. It was founded in the 6th century and includes many parts - forum, baths, temples and accommodation - in addition to the theatre.

Dougga Roman Theatre

Communal loo!

Olive oil press
nearby

Dispensing the olive oil

Then it was onwards to Kairouan, which we didn't make until after darkness, and check in to La Kasbah hotel. A light dinner and a couple of beers finished the long day off nicely.

More and more I am impressed with the friendliness of the Tunisian people, male and female, relaxed and open to greeting and conversation where language permits. It really is a warm and welcoming place.

First visit of the morning was to the Maulsoleum of Abu Zama'a al-Balawi, a Berber and companion of the Islamic Prophet Muhammad, at the 4th holiest site of the Muslim World. It dates from the 9th century. 7 visits here can substitute for a Hajj visit to Mecca.

Water resevoir
piped from a nearby mountain
by aquaduct

Mosque
with prayer schedule

Tomb

Last, it was a visit to the Grand Mosque before we set off from Kairouan to Tozeur, some 5 hours drive southwest.

Extract from the Quran

Started in 670

There was a gradual change to the scenery along the way, greener and cultivated areas giving way to a sandy and arid landscape as we neared the northern edge of the Sahara.

Sandwich stop along the way

Sheep double decker transport!

Entrance to Tozeur

Dinner out

Earthenware carafe of wine
brought in from outside
and served in goblets

Hugh's Dromedaire casserole
in its earthenware pot

My dish of thin chapati, nuts
and chicken

Restaurant Dar Deda

Tammy and I joined a chef to buy some vegetables in the local market, for a lunch preparation later, before taking a ride to Eden Palm Oasis, a 2million hectare area growing dates and other fruits.

Limes

Dates

Our buggy

Lunch is served!

Out from Tozeur, we stopped at a set used for a Star Wars film, Mos Espa, near Ong Jemal in the desert. It was fascinating to see what can be achieved, even if it is showing some signs of weathering after many years.

Cutting across the corner of the salt lake Chott el Gharsa, it was onwards to close to the Algerian border, to catch a glimpse of a canyon that was used for the Star Wars film.

Algeria beyond