Saturday, 15 December 2012

South Africa - Cape Town

We woke to a clear sunny day to wander a little of the waterfront, which is really great, a docks' regeneration along the lines of other cities, with many restaurants and shops, as well as some working areas.

We took the hop on and off bus tour around the city for orientation, learning some about its history, and then got off to take the cable car up to Table Mountain.  It was clear, but for a slight heat haze, and only slightly breezy, so pretty ideal conditions just before midday.  We wandered the top enjoying the views in all directions and across to Robben Island, and watched the cloud beginning to build up and spill over the edge like a waterfall, as the 'table cloth' was being thrown over.



 Robben Island in the back ground

 Table cloth coming!


Camps Bay

We returned via the stunning beach at Camps Bay, a magnet (apparently) for the great and good, and on through Sea Point, which is just round the corner on the coast from the city centre and is home to many commuters.  It was described as the 'nearest thing to European living' i.e. crowded!  Some residents have lifts up to their front doors.  Didn't fancy that sort of congestion.

As the day came to a close, the wind got up more and the cloud spilled all along the top of Table Mountain and we appreciated more just how ideal the conditions had been for out visit there.  We experienced some chill while dining on the waterfront.


Closed for the next two days

Next day, the wind was even stronger and the white surf was being whipped up over the water, even in the harbour.  The mountain was shrouded in cloud and the cable car was shut down because of the wind - how lucky were we!  

After another great breakfast, we headed for town and walked up to the Bo Kaap area,  an Islamic ghetto of note, where most of the houses are painted in bright colours.  The explanation was that the residents were slaves and had to wear drab clothes, so they painted their houses instead!  We had a look in its small museum before heading for the larger South African and Jewish Museums in the centre of the city.



Along the way, we passed through Company's Garden, started by the Dutch East India Company as a place to grow vegetables and fruit in its early days, but converted to plants and trees later.  


After a short visit to the SA Museum, we spent quite some time at the Jewish one, where we read and saw lots about the life of Jews in SA and the support that many individuals gave to fighting apartheid.  Every white person arrested at the raid on Liliesleaf Farm was a Jew and Nelson Mandela has paid tribute to many of them, in particular Helen Suzman, a politician, who fought tirelessly in parliament during that era.  The wind continued to howl.  We then took a bus trip around the west side of the mountain to discover where all the wind and cloud was coming from and again came back to Camps Bay etc, after a very sand-swept Hout Bay along the way.  It explained the sand on the top deck of the bus!


Next day, we were up and ready for a trip to Robben Island, only to discover that the ferry was closed down due to the windy conditions.  Worse still, the bit of the museum that was located at the ferry terminal was in the process of relocation to the island!  We were both very disappointed.

I walked to the local Harley dealership and bought a t-shirt as you do, then we went to town for a quick bite before seeing a very impressive and energetic African Dance show in a small theatre.

On our last day, we took a tour south to Cape Point, the southernmost tip of the Table Mountain National Park peninsular, went to the lighthouse at the top and then a short detour to the better known Cape of Good Hope, the southwestermost point of Africa.  It remained windy throughout, but the views were fantastic.

 Hout Bay


African Penguin Colony visited along the way

 Looking north from Cape Point
Atlantic & Indian Ocean currents to left & right



Wind surfers at Cape of Good Hope

Round the coast some then inland, we got to the Stellenbosch wine making area and had a tour and tasting at a small one before returning to Cape Town.




South Africa - Blue Train

The train goes from Pretoria to Cape Town and normally stops for a museum tour and visit to the "Big Hole", an enormous hand-dug diamond mine in days gone by.  But, our journey wasn't quite to follow the script.  The train is slightly more luxurious than the Indian Pacific and the Ghan in Australia, and very comfortable.

After a wait and coffee in the lounge, we were escorted to the train by our butler to settle in and explore our very fine room with en suite.  

Butlers waiting






Bar

Lounge

Dining car



The train was only half full so meals were all in one sitting and we quickly got to know quite a few of the mixed group.  And, a glass of bubbles helped that along just after 9 am!  Brunch was a sumptuous five course affair, washed down with a very pleasant bottle of Riesling!

Shortly afterwards, our luck was to change as we got stuck behind a derailment.  We returned to Klerksdorp, only 187km from Johannesburg, where we filled up with water and then sat for a long period while the train manager and the operations folk tried to sort out alternatives. 

 We should have been in Kimberley by now!

After discussion about a diversion, it was decided that we return to the derailment and wait until its clearance, it was there we had dinner, and it was well after midnight before we set off again.

Israel and Jean during dinner

Just after breakfast, we pulled into De Aar, only halfway to Cape Town, to once more fill up with water.  The capacity of the tanks and consumption of the baths and showers on board mean that this seems to be a regular need, and it takes 2-3 hours to complete!  In Kimberley, the planned stop, it would only have taken 1 hour.

During extra lunch

Finally, the delays had built up such that the train was destined to arrive in Cape Town at 2-3 am, 42 hr into what was meant to be a 28 hr trip and the operations people decided that we would be driven from Matjiesfontein to Cape Town instead.  Private cars were laid on and this worked out, so we arrived at our hotel on the waterfront late evening.

Friday, 14 December 2012

South Africa - Kruger Park

Our minibus took us from our hotel early to pick up others en route and head for Tremisana Lodge in the Oliphants Game Reserve, adjacent to Kruger Park.  It was a long day with some delays and we had to immediately board our evening game drive transport on arrival in the late afternoon.  This took us around our reserve, where we saw buffalo, wart hog, impala, water buck and a jackal, returning to the Lodge just in time for our Boma (bbq on an open fire) dinner.

Impala

 Wildebeest

Wart hog

 Boma (& Jean!)

Next morning, I was up, a  bit weary, at  4:15 to join a walk down to the Oliphants River, with both fore and aft guides carrying rifles, just in case, fortunately not needed!  The high point was seeing two groups of hippos in the fast flowing river, apparently not that common, in addition to learning about several different trees, some poisonous trees, identifying tracks, including a recent paw print of a lion, hippo and rhino, and becoming moderately expert in identifying the poop of elephant, hippo, rhino, giraffe and water buck.  There's handy!  In the afternoon, we went to a Tshukudu Game Reserve for high tea then an evening game drive.  We saw a family of wart hogs, impala, giraffe, buffalo, a white rhino with baby, elephant and lion.  A baby elephant confronted our vehicle, rearing up and trumpeting loudly, as well as edging forward as if before charging.  The driver was very amused until its grandmother finally got in between it and the truck to stop it clowning around.  We had tracked a lion, with collar, but it kept moving and it wasn't until after dark when we found it eating a wart hog that it had killed, so it had been hunting.  It consumes all of the 40kg or so in one go, with no vegetables or gravy!  That made four of the Big Five (elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion and leopard).

Patrick loading before we set off

Steve as rear guard & first aid!

Hippo

plus infants

Fresh lion print (& we're walking!)

Monkeys and guinea fowl near the lapa (breakfast area)


Buffalo

White rhino and baby

Baby Jumbo shaking his head at our vehicle

Then taunts the driver

Lion eating a wart hog, one I caught earlier!

We spent a whole day in central area of Kruger Park.  A limitation here is that you mustn't leave the tracks so have to rely on seeing game close to it.  We saw giraffe, impala, kudu, water buck, buffalo, wart hog, a wild dog pack, elephants, a large lizard, monkeys, jackals, a family of cheetahs and lions.  We were very lucky to see a cheetah rise up from the grass, chase and catch an impala, the rest of the herd scattering across the road, right in front of us.  It hauled its prey away, but still in view, then called its 4 cubs to come and feed.  That clocked three of the Super Five Predators (lion, leopard, cheetah, hyena and wild dog).  The leopard proved elusive, as they are, although another group from our Lodge saw one.  The lions were sleeping by the roadside, two males and one I couldn't see enough of to tell.  It was a long but very fruitful day.


Wildebeest having a scratch!

 Wild dog pack, difficult to see (rest of pack lying down)

Elephants playing in water hole

 Cheetah drags off her impala prey

 Then leaves it to call for her cubs, while the impala watch

Four cubs come running

 Mother watches while cubs eat

Elephant has a good scratch against tree after mud bath

Male ostrich

Zebra crossing!

Water buck, with distinctive toilet seat behind!

Buffalo having a mud bath

Oh so good, makes your tongue come out, or is it contempt?

Jean watches two male lions

Jackal on the track

Baby jackal outside the den

The buffalo is the most feared animal, not giving any warning before charging and will attack humans more readily than other predators.  The wildebeest, by  way of contrast, is the most stupid, stopping to see what is chasing it!

Before leaving  for Pretoria, we took any early morning drive at 4:45am, when we saw jackals, including a baby, and hippo before returning for breakfast.  Then it was to Blyde Canyon, like a small scale Grand Canyon, and another full day of being cramped in a minibus until we got to our small hotel in a beautiful and leafy suburb of Pretoria, compliments of The Blue Train.  The gateman was dressed in a jester's uniform for reasons that were not clear!

Blyde Canyon