Russia - RWC Sevens

The principal reason for the visit, but it was an event of firsts:

- A magnificent stadium with capacity of nearly 90,000, ex 1980 Olympics but with about 15% cordoned off with IRB advertising and what remains only about 10% full, rather scattered too. There were more officials with badges, police of various kinds and many National Guard than paying spectators.  Security was styled for a football match, not a Sevens Carnival.

- There were no programmes of any kind, not even a notice board of fixtures, but I had fortunately brought one with me for the Pool phase. But, I had to go on-line to get the fixtures for the Knock-out phase, otherwise I wouldn't have known who was playing!

- There was to have been a French band and there was a large stage set with video screens, but it must have played on Saturday to an empty stadium and after we had left, because nobody knew and their kit had gone come Sunday!

- There was no merchandise of any kind to take away or promote the success of what they would have hoped to have been a sensational tournament, and there seemed to be almost no local advertising, even though Russia won the Bowl.

- There was a grim selection of food in the few kiosks inside the Stadium - you can live on it, but you wouldn't choose to unless you had to!

- Crucially, there was no beer, or any alcohol of any kind, inside or outside the Stadium on the first day - 5 hours of rugby on two small bottles of water on Day 1 was definitely a first!  We did find a small tent doing brisk trade in beer outside later.  Dubai, despite its restrictions, is fully provisioned.
The complex is magnificent, very impressive, and well maintained despite its age, but the blatant lack of marketing and selling opportunities was quite stunning.

I've complained to the IRB but don't expect to hear anything.

There was a substantial high energy opening ceremony, but the senior officials and organisers must have been acutely aware of how empty the stands were around it, and I question whether the IRB could come here again with such a misunderstood event provision and low attendance.

There was an amusing aside on the morning of the 3rd day when we saw a scuffle between two National Guardsmen, one of whom had decked the other and given him a bloody nose.  The fracas continued as the victim swung twice more at his assailant and all this took place in front of the officers without recourse!

Two small groups of supporters, one Kenyan and the other Fijian, made more noise than the rest of the crowd, except when the thunder came late on Sunday, when general cheering broke out.  Play was stopped while the lightning cracked and the heavy rain fell and it did compromise handling when play resumed.  For some time, huge bow waves preceded sliding players and tacklers.

However, the rugby was good, especially the final day, and it saw New Zealand win both the Men’s and Ladies’ World Cups to become World Champions for both 15’s and 7’s, Men’s & Women’s, a first.  England had a patchy performance and made it to the final, but was rather overwhelmed by New Zealand, whose coach had spotted its weaknesses, particularly in the line-out.

Luzniki Stadium as seen from Moscow State University

and vice versa

National Guard getting ready for the trouble

But, where are the spectators?

Flags of participants in Opening Ceremony

Jean - stalwart supporter in the rain!

Both NZ teams celebrate this RWC successes in the near empty stadium

Russia - Moscow City

We stayed in the Hilton Leningradskaya, converted from one of the Seven Sisters, large “wedding cake” style architectural pieces from the Stalin era.  It was pleasant enough as a place to stay with the exception of the price of beverages – local lager at £9/pint, Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc at £70/bottle, and cocktails were cheaper than beer, wine and bottled water!

Hilton Leningradskaya

The (expensive) expansive Lobby

Kremlin on the opposite side of Moscow River

Red Square

Lenin's Mausoleum (he looked a bit 'waxy')

St Basil's Cathedral

8 churches in 1

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier & Presidential Guard

(who must all be pure Russian and 1m 80cm tall)

All change

'Allo, you taking over?

Bye

Kremlin Clock Tower

Garden nearby

Kremlin in background, again

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

(destroyed by Stalin, rebuilt in 10 years in the 90s, without State funds)

GUM shopping centre in Red Square

(nothing actually bought there, just for brand marketing)

Of course, some Russian dolls!

Bolshoi Ballet

Into the Metro

Rub the dog's nose for luck!

Statue of Chekov

Moscow State University

The City has changed dramatically since the fall of communism and much progress has been made in just over 20 years.  It is very clean and without litter, despite a lack of law and fines.  There is little to no obesity and everyone seemed very smartly dressed.  One of our rugby group was gripped judging whether the trim and attractive promenading young Russian ladies had longer heels than skirts! iPhones and foreign cars were everywhere and the city has a major traffic problem despite having 8 lanes each side on some of its ring roads, so financial well-being is evident on the surface.  But, we also saw blocks of Soviet style apartment blocks that looked pretty grim and some of the many road accidents were more than just bumps.

We had two walking tours with different guides and we felt we had tromped over most of Moscow by the end of them.  Value for money was high on a per km basis!  We saw varied architecture, from Red Square with the Kremlin, Lenin’s Mausoleum, St Basil’s Cathedral & The GUM Store, to Bolshoi Ballet Theatre(s), the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (another of the Seven), The Moscow State University (yet another), the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour and the Metro, yes the Underground!  It even warrants a full day tour of its own because of its architectural prowess.  It was hot, over 30°C both days, but the price of a hotel beer didn't seem to matter on our return!

South Africa - Port Elizabeth

On arrival by air in Port Elizabeth, we picked up a hire car and travelled a short distance along the coast to Trevor & Debs' house, interestingly called "Trust Me" by him in memory of his architect's favourite saying during its design and construction!  They treated us to a braai (barbeque) with enormous steaks, on their patio overlooking the sea and we saw dolphins and whales while enjoying it!

We took an inland route west from T&D's, very scenic through fruit growing country and into the hills.  Turning south towards Knysna on the coast, I ignored a road closed sign to Jean's chagrin and carried on down a very winding dirt road for over 80 km.  It took us through Prince Alfred's Pass and was quite dramatic, if a little steep at the sides at times!  It was worth it and it wasn't really closed.  We emerged from it and headed for the waterfront in Knysna where we enjoyed a very pleasant late afternoon lunch.  We then discovered our guest house at The Heads (not naval toilets but a narrow channel to the sea) had no water!  Off to another, which was really nice and not far away, where we bumped into a couple we had met on the Blue Train!

Rain fell the next day and our plan to make a few stops to enjoy the more direct coastal route back from Knysna were abandonned.

Back with T&D, we were treated to a potjie - a cast iron pot in which chicken and vegetables are slow cooked over a fire.  I had a few lessons, but it seems the process of cooking, over a few beers, is as much the enjoyment as the end product!

But, the centre piece of our visit here was the Sevens.  It took place in a fine new stadium, but the crowds were quite thin both days.  Beautiful weather enabled some fine rugby with New Zealand taking the cup, quite easily, Wales the Plate, Australia the Bowl and Spain the Shield.

We went Springboks for the day!

On our last full day, we paid a visit to the local Seaview Lion Park to see some white lions, bigguns too, lion and tiger cubs, leopard cubs and a black leopard.  It's a sanctuary, rather than a zoo, where the preservation of threatened animals is the goal, and it is staffed by mostly US volunteers who work for just their keep, very wortwhile.

So, albeit it in captivity, we did manage to see the Big Five during our fabulous trip, I am every grateful to Trevor & Debs for suggesting the visit during our US trip, and for being such great hosts while we were with them.

We had also hoped to be taken flying by Trevor, in his Cessna 140, but the weather and time conspired to prevent this.  However, we did have a look and a sit in the cockpit.  That's real flying!