Stockholm finale

We walked lots but didn't find a really local restaurant. In fact, finding vegetarian food for Cathryn was a failure and we ended up, not by first choice, in a TGI Friday on the last night, after walking for over an hour and finding no other vegetarian menu on offer! A Chinese restaurant was very obliging on the second night and made a vegetable soup for Cathryn. Alcohol is seriously expensive and the place is generally on the expensive side, but I believe salaries are commensurate. We found a pub selling Spitfire beer (Shepherd Neame from Kent) a few strides, or staggers, from our hotel. It was a good night! The night life is evolving although we wondered if there was more in the suburbs where people live, rather than the city centre where we were staying. We came across a Gay Pride parade on the last afternoon, my first, watching that is! It was a bit of a wait in the sun, which was quite strong by then, and there were some rather colourful people in the parade, some mid 'change' I would say! They were a happy lot and were cheered by the large and liberal crowd of spectators. Our final morning was spent wandering around the old town, on the same island as the Royal Palace, a place of narrow streets and one to sit and enjoy a coffee and people watch.

It was fabulous weekend with my two, the first since we went skiing together many years ago to Val Thorens, and I enjoyed it immensely being with just them. I liked Stockholm and had never been there, so they hit the bulls eye on that 60th surprise for me! It also fitted nicely between Michael's 30th on 28 July and Cathryn's upcoming 32nd on 14 August. Happy & grateful Dad.

Stockholm, the city

The buildings are grand, some quite colourful, but the furniture tastes in Stockholm seem anchored in IKEA! Furniture is modern and rather square and uninteresting, just like the stuff in the stores.

The Royal Palace was somewhat more grand inside in terms of ornate and gilted furniture, but even it has a Silver Jubilee Room, commissioned for the current King, which looks as though it could have come from IKEA.
I hadn't realised the extent to which Stockholm is built on islands. The main city is on the mainland, but many suburbs and the Royal Palace, at the top, are on islands. There are many bridges and we took a 2 hour trip around several of them, entering the large fresh water lake that forms part of the archipelago. It is fed with glacial melt water and separated from the Baltic by locks. There are apparently 24,000 islands in the archipelago.

Stockholm with Cathryn & Michael

This was a birthday present for my 60th. I was given the coordinates and had to figure out where I was going from Google Earth! It was a long weekend with just Cathryn & Michael and it was great. It's a very clean and grand city, well spread out with wide streets and smart buildings. We were able to walk around the city centre and access most things on foot, but we did take a hop on/off bus tour of the city which enabled us to visit the Vasa & Nordic Museums, the Royal Palace, and enjoy the scenery from the top of an open air bus. The first day was a bit gloomy and we had some drizzle, but after that it warmed and cleared. We came across a stunning exhibition of photographs of wild life photographer Steve Bloom. The blown up detail of his stuff is quite stunning, an example shown here. The Vasa wooden hull ship was built and launched in 1628 and promptly capsized due to calculation errors on her maiden voyage. She was discovered in the late 60s but it was not until 1971 that she was raised - must have been immensely heavy with waterlogged wood. She has been restored and there is an amazing amount of the original structure, although it has been coated with a polycarbonate resin for preservation, which gives it a gloss. She was an ornate tribute to King Vasa and is very impressive. The Nordic Museum is a very grand building but I found its contents, while relevant, to be less interesting than the building. It is the one on the left across the water, with Vasa on the right.

A Last Thought.....

So, I'm quite happy with my Softail Heritage Classic really, but I did feel somewhat humbled when those two German choppers happened to end up parked either side of mine at the Rally. Somehow, it didn't seem to stand out quite so much, a tad sandwiched, maybe a little lacking in the back wheel area? A subject to ponder maybe?........................

The Trip Home - Final Leg

The crossing wasn't bad, although many others were moaning when I went for breakfast. The weather was grey and dull and we had just begun to pick up news of flooding and heavy rains in UK, so it was with some trepidation that we kitted up for rain on arrival. This turned out to be unnecessary and we had a dry, sometimes sunny, ride home after unloading the bikes and seeing the V-Rod man being loaded onto an AA recovery vehicle. Mark pressed on home because of the real threat of flooding at his Worcester home, realised in the early hours of the following morning. Ian and Jackie did the same to attend her son's 18th that evening. Craig, Sue and I called in at the H-D dealer at Bridgewater as it is a particularly big one and had a browse as you do. I got yet another T-shirt to add to my ever-growing Harley collection! Everybody moans that they keep doing it, but just keep doing it anyway!
I got home just after 5pm on the 26th, just over 1,700 miles and 9 nights after leaving home, feeling a bit weary but exhilirated by the experience - the riding, the scenery of changing landscape, the company and, of course, the Rally itself.
It's the most riding in two trips to France & Spain that I have ever done and I have learned a lot and enjoyed them both immensely. Now, I'd better get some golf in before the next society match, otherwise I'll be in trouble with the partner!

The Trip Home - Day 3

After a cloudy and chilly start, the V-Rod with the broken shock was loaded onto the van and we were away. Slowly the weather became wetter and colder, although it was the drop to 8degC as we crossed over some mountains that played the bigger part. The bikes had become separated from the van because of an accident so, when we hit low cloud over the higher mountains, the luggage left in the van, with wet weather gear for some, became a problem for some! Not alone with wet jeans, Sue was shaking so much when we caught up with the van at a coffee stop, she could barely light a ciggie! I didn't laugh too much.
From that stop, the weather got a bit better and, after an immensely impressive ride down from on high, we found our way to the ferry terminal and bright sunshine. The V-Rod was unloaded and the two others put on instead. Possibly because of the load, the ferry was a bit late leaving and we were all feeling a bit tired by then.
The ferry found its way to open choppy sea and the crew's first job seem to be to top up all the sick bag dispensers! There was live music and another visit to the buffet, which seemed to perk some of us up, so it wasn't quite as early to bed as foreseen, but we still had plenty of hours left because of the time change.

The Trip Home - Day 2

The second day across Spain saw more expanses of cultivation and hot weather relieved by higher altitudes. Another good day that ended at the best Paradore of all at Lerma, a 15th century castle that sits right in the middle of the town at the top of a hill with a stunning surrounding view. One such view, from my balcony, is shown. We had been recommended to eat in as the food was good and how true that was, after a couple of drinks in the old town. As the evening drew on, more and more bikes arrived, converging on the ferry at Santander the next day.

This was when Mark's van came into its own, as we met a chap from an adjacent Chapter who had a broken shock absorber because of the bad roads. Mark offered to load the bike and take it as far as the ferry the next day.

The Trip Home - Day 1

The start home was delayed slight as Jacquie had an inexplicable flat battery, but Ian had jump leads so, with both saddles quickly removed, the bike was started and run for a while to make sure it was ok to go. Then we set off through the traffic once again. It was not quite as busy as our arrival, and we were soon in the hills again . It was considerably hotter than our trip down and for much of the day the temperature nudged 40degC except when we were higher. Continuing to wear a full black suit, until H-D come up with a darker colour, became somewhat uncomfortable at these temperatures but I refused to compromise on protection for comfort. Besides, the sun was strong. I have found that when the shade temperature rises above body temperature, especially when there is a strong wind, it is rather akin to sitting in front of a hair dryer! The arid landscape of southern Spain is covered with groves of one kind or another and vineyards and the expanse of this was highly impressive at times.
By the time we reached our Paradore at Manzanares, an old country house, there was a very welcome dip in the rather chilly pool before dinner. The staff were somewhat more cheery at this place I noted.
PS Most of the others' luggage was in the van, but I maintained my independence!

The Rally Last Night

After the stunt show and a good meal in town, it was back to the hotel for a few nightcaps and a final indulgence in some of the bikes outside.

Who was it who said if the photo is taken from below, everyone's chin would look thinner?

The Rally Stunt Show

Craig Jones is Buell/Harley-Davidson's stunt rider extraordinaire. I have seen him before at Minehead in 2003 and he paid a visit to a Chapter Club Night some years ago. He is European Stunt Champion and holder of the world record (266 metres) for a 'stoppie' - putting the bike up on its front wheel only until it comes to rest. I still don't know whether he has something missing or something extra!

He is shown doing a wheelie on a Buell, while sitting on the handlebars, including turning at each end while doing so. Then, dragging the tail of a V-Rod along the ground, with sparks, and leaning over the handlebars to help the front brake while he burns rubber on the spinning back tyre while inching forward.

His finale is when his Chinese partner stands on front axle extensions grabbing the front forks, while Craig does a stoppie as the partner's helmet drags along the ground creating sparks to hit some lighted flares on the course. Oh yes, I forgot, while braking one-handed!

Nuts or what?

The Rally Site

The venue is a market area based around one long street and this provided the ideal set up for the event - shops in the old Spanish style, which were used by the various dealerships, food and other vendors. There is considerable organisation required to receive so many people and bikes and there was a police presence around, although very much integrated with the rally and including one on a police Harley!

With ticket checked, your bike and you are banded and if the numbers don't match, the security folk wont let you out! It gave some assurance about security and there will easily have been over £100m of bike value there at the peak.

There were two stages for the live entertainment, different themed food stalls and a number of open areas where you could sit and enjoy a drink. There was flamenco, good quality live bands and plenty to entertain, including the stunt show from Craig Jones...............

The Rally Bikes - V-Rods

V-Rod is the latest Harley range, based broadly on a design for a drag bike. Initially available in just one colour and variation, more and more variants are available and an increasing number of custom bikes are evident. Some are shown here.

V2PNK is a Lady of Harley's bike, complete with a crisscross pink ribbon to the saddle and a pair of lips on the backreat, both not visible in the picture. She rode off shortly after I took this picture, with a pink helmet of course!

V3ROD featured a very detailed paint job to the metalwork and a matching saddle.

The orange and black bike is the Screaming Eagle version, which is Harley's own name for their high performance enhancement and is a component of the drag racing version, which has a long tail and small wheels at the back end to avoid it tipping backwards under extreme acceleration.

The Rally Bikes - Choppers

This is always and interesting area. The most impressive pair of choppers were outside our hotel and the German couple who owned them are pictured. Hers is the blue one, 'Holy Moly'. His is the orange one in the background with a close up of its paint job.

She is the designer and also seemed to be more of the engineer in conversation. She is seen pictured with one of the local police on her bike in the rally site.

The other orange one sits down courtesy of air suspension, so doesn't need a side stand, also picture outside our hotel.

These bikes look impressive but are not easy to ride.

The Rally Bikes - General

There were many customised bikes and some heavily customised. Every bike is different, depending on what extras the owners may have put on them. Some simply add off the shelf extras, but others have paint jobs done on the tanks, fenders and frames. One even had denim on the fenders and tank, complete with hip pocket!

Although maybe not so impressive in the photo, the bike with the exhausts like gatling guns was the bike show peoples' choice winner. Not easy to see are the nitrous oxide tanks fitted into each side of the petrol tank for performance! It was on the pavement outside our hotel, but we agreed we didn't agree with the peoples' choice. The other was just one of many at the rally itself.

Some will spend considerable sums on custom paint jobs and other will spend even larger sums on custom bikes and choppers..........

The Rally People

HOGs come from all over..........

Colombia in the group, the guy with the Kaiser hat from Italy, the fellow with the leather hat from Saudi Arabia, from Celtic Thunder Chapter Ireland on the bike and the bloke from Iceland is standing just behind one from Wales. A truly impressive and cosmopolitan mixture of people with shared interests. I am always amazed at the brand loyalty of some to Harley Davidson, when they get the bar and shield logo, plus a soaring eagle tattooed. I've never seen anyone with Ford or Vauxhall, for example!

PS I don't have one by the way!

Trip Down - Day 4

There were more stunning views to be enjoyed and it wasn't until we got closer to Malaga and Fuengirola that we picked up traffic and temperatures rose. There were some 'interesting' bends on the motorway that we had to join on the way into Malaga, which made you sit up and pay attention. I find in this situation that you can end up following the person in front too much, without paying much attention to the road in anticipation as you should, but there were no close calls. The traffic, however, was very unpleasant at times as Spanish car drivers will cut up motorcyclists without warning or even try to push you out of your lane, so we were all glad when it was over and we got to the Confortel overlooking the beach in Fuengirola. This turned out to have been a good find as the picture from my balcony testifies. The hotel was already filling with HOGs and bikes were parked all over the pavement outside.

Almagro - out on the town

We walked to a recommended restaurant where we had a good meal and then stopped in the square on the way back. Spirits were high as Sue and Jacquie walked the edge of a fountain, successfully! Unfortunately, Ian's impression of Eric Morecambe's "Bring me sunshine" on the cobbles was fraught and an injury dogged him for the rest of the trip. I took a photo of Jacquie helping him back to the Parador but the criticism received for doing so prevents me from publishing it here!

Trip Down - Day 3

Today, I disappointed myself by sleeping in and woke just 20 mins before departure time. However, after a rapid but complete morning ablutions and no breakfast, I found myself first in the car park at the allotted hour. I had not brought my travel alarm, but had forgotten that my mobile has one, which I used thereafter. It was a first and last! I did enjoy a croissant at the first coffee stop.

This day saw some glorious weather, rolling hills and varying temperatures as we climbed and dropped. Vast expanses of relatively flat land offered great views and the riding was relatively easy, although the road quality was not always good so a sharp eye had to be kept out for pot holes and other faults in the road surface.
One stop, by a lake, was particulary enjoyed and we were hustled to view a property being developed as a hotel by a local lady, all very pleasant. Having the full day and a fairly prompt start, the pace was not hurried and we were able to enjoy several stops along the way. Overall, the temperature got higher as we progressed south until we arrived at our second Paradore at Almagro. This had been a monastery and had the advantage of being in the centre of town, so we took the opportunity to make use of this.

Trip Down - Day 2

Arriving at Santander more or less on time and with the ferry filled to bike capacity, it seemed to take ages before the access to the lower deck was opened and we were able to disembark.

Then, with only one rather fussy immigration person dealing with them, it took ages to get clear and start getting the two bikes off the van. Ian then had the same remote control problems as had been experienced in France, probably caused by cellular radio interference, and it took a while for his bike to be disarmed and get going again. Sue had other ideas and went her own way at the first roundabout and had to be chased by hubbie Craig. Petrol was then required, Jacquie's bike then had the alarm problem, and it was hot hot hot! Over 1.5 hours and we hadn't gone more than mile or two, had 200 still to go and it was mid afternoon! Groan!
However, we finally got clear and enjoyed some wonderful rides over mountains at over 1,000m, which brought cool air and great scenery. We even had time for a coffee stop before getting to our first Paradore at Tordesillas. The Paradores de Turismo are state-owned establishments that have been converted into hotels and can offer quite exceptional accommodation as were to discover. This parador used to be an ancestral home and was quite grand, which is more than can be said for the restaurant service. Maybe they just weren't very happy in their jobs, but the bread being delivered like a frizbee to your plate by an unsmiling waitress set the scene. The food itself was ok and the prices of these places is very good overall. It was welcome, however.

The Trip Down - Day 1

Five bikes and riders met in the early morning of Sunday 17th June for the journey down to Plymouth for the ferry to Santander and the 16th European HOG Rally in Fuengirola near Malaga, Spain. A cool start to the day turned to mixed cloud and sun with only a slight hint of rain. Another couple taking their own route travelled on one further bike and Mark was driving his van, for later use. Two bikes were unable to obtain tickets on the ferry, so were carried on the ferry in his van, and proved to be useful to our group and other later. We would be allowing sufficient time for coffee and other stops, as well as enjoying scenery along the way. It would take us four days and three nights to get there, the same to return, and we would get 3 nights and two whole days at the Rally itself.
Chris & Liz journeyed separately to the ferry, joined us for the crossing, took a different route to the Rally but stayed in the same hotel.
The 16th European Rally followed the 15th in Killarney last year, rotating around Europe as it does, but was expected to have many more bikes in attendance than Killarney, with its more central and continental European location. About 5,000 bikes had attended Killarney and around 10,000 were expected at Fuengirola. The Rally is a congregation of HOG members to present your bike (if it is one of those heavily modified ones), socialise with others, peruse and buy goods, mostly Harley-Davidson, and enjoy live music and other entertainment for a few days. Most people wear the badges of their local Chapter to make identification easier and this can often be the basis of the initiation of conversation. Drink and food are, of course, taken.

Trip to Annecy - the conclusion

Stunning scenery, good company and fun were the rewards. Lessons were learned - wax your boots before you leave, remember your swimming trunks, get some anti-fog spray for your visor so you don't have to leave it slightly open to spray and rain to stop it misting up - visibility is terrible when it's raining on the inside as well the outside at night. Huge experience was gained - the most demanding mountain riding ever, the most terrible weather conditions ever, the longest trip ever (a few miles under 2,000 in 9.5 days). The French roads are marvellous (slightly more population, many more miles of road and all well maintained), the people are very courteous to other motorcyle and Harley riders, moving over to let you pass or cheering you from the pavement. Even the police motorcyclists greet you with a V-sign (Harley-Davidson V-Twin that is, not something rude) as they pass by. But, my O-level French is still sadly lacking for full conversation! Bring on the European Rally in Spain in 3 weeks!

Trip to Annecy - the return journey

For the last night, Roger took us up to a high remote mountain restaurant, which we would never have found on our own, in his minibus together with Suzanne and Veronique, the maid. It was good night but we had to retire early for the long slog of the next day. It was just as well as it was to be demanding due to rain. Roger, Suzanne and Veronique were there to wave us off. We ran into rain about half way through the 300+ mile journey and had to stop on two occasions because of the dangerous conditions. First, we just missed a hail storm, with hail the size of marbles, which would have been perilous had we been riding. The wait here for it to subside was not too long, but the next one to avoid torrential rain was for around 45 mins, so our arrival at the motor lodge was later than expected. We had stuck to motorway as much as possible to make progress, so there was little scenery to enjoy or riding activity to cope with.

Another early night for an even earlier start for the final journey home - a 225 mile sprint mostly in heavy rain and stiff winds to Le Havre, followed by ferocious winds and rain for the 130 mile stage from Portsmouth to home. On the ferry ramp at Portsmouth, the wind caught my windscreen and pushed me a couple of feet sideways before I got control again. The traffic was light from Chievely because of the late hour, but the inactivity of just sitting on the bike in the driving rain and wind mile after mile meant that my legs were shaking with cold by the time one of the group from Bidford and I crossed the Cotswolds. I finally got home at 1:15am and headed straight for a hot shower and an even hotter whisky and bed. Even so, my feet were still cold, my boots having started to take in water in the later stages as I hadn't re-waxed them before we set off. My riding mate told me the next day that he too was shaking from head to foot and his wife had to help him take off his clothes on arrival, having suffered more than me without a windscreen, and his boots had started leaking on the outward journey! The rest of the group went via the M4/M5 to Bristol, Cirencester, Droitwich and Bromsgrove. It was character building!