First stop, in the rain, was to pick up a local guide in Dong Ha before leaving for Con Thien Combat Base. We passed many graves, both civilian local people in the paddy fields and new military graveyards for the North Vietnamese Army and Viet Cong. The rain made the treck to the hilltop where the base had been a bit muddy and Mike's choice of sandals for the day may have been a tactical mistake. Although it was not clear what we might see at this place, a first time for me, it was obviosus once we had reached it - the hilltop had a pretty good command of the surrounding area and made for a good location just south of the DMZ southern border - 5km south of the Ben Hai River, which was established as the demarcation of North and South Vietnam in 1954. The DMZ was established +/-5km from the Ben Hai River.
Next to the Ben Hai River itself and a new monument to the heroes of the struggle and re-unification of Vietnam. I notice Jean and Mike beginning to ask more questions and a shift in their understanding of what took place those many years ago - we all grew up in the '60s and remember the protest songs and so on, but many did not understand the significance of what was being said.
Onward to the Vinh Moc tunnels, north of the DMZ. This was a great experience for Jean and Mike - the tunnel complex housing living quarters for the villagers after the US had obliterated their village, complete with a maternity 'ward' (a small annex) in which 17 children were born and still survive, the 'meeting room' and the 'family rooms', also small annexes in which it would impossible for me to lie down let alone a family to live (in my view). Over 300 villagers lived in these tunnels for years and one who spent 10 continuous days underground - something we could not comprehend. We had to be in awe of their commitment to their cause.
Then to Khe Sanh Combat Base, seeing the vast defoliated areas along the way as a result of the 20 million gallons of Agent Orange (Dioxin) that had been dropped by the US and still causes genetic disorders and cancers in the children of those who were exposed to it. I knew before, and saw again that the US didn't 'get it' in their 'defence' of South Vietnam. A new museum has been built at Khe Sanh, but the exhibited helicopters, tank, cannon and shell casings have all been imported for the purpose, but its military significance is still not lost - seen as a possible Dien Bien Phu (defeat of the French by the Viet Minh in 1954 that gave rise to the division of the country) for the US, the US threw everything at its defence to avoid a similar turning point, not realising that it was a distraction for the main Tet Offensive of '68 attacks on many other bases throughout S. Vietnam and a near collapse. Afterwards, they realised it had no significant military importance and cleared it! But, 500 Americans and many more Vietnamese died and 100,000 tonnes of bombs were dropped in the process.
A visit to a Paco minority tribe village was very interesting with the old ladies smoking their pipes while the children and animals roamed freely. Stilt houses provided very basic accommodation and the children had very dirty clothing and probably no schooling, because they have less rights than indigenous Vietnamese, in common with parallel situations I have seen in China and northwest Vietnam.
Finally we had a look at the Dakrong Bridge. It's really just a suspension bridge and not really of any great proportion, but it's not the same bridge I saw in '98 as that one, built by the Cubans in 1975, fell down in 2000 due to rust!
Burleigh Tours seems to be called Burleigh Boot camp now!
Next to the Ben Hai River itself and a new monument to the heroes of the struggle and re-unification of Vietnam. I notice Jean and Mike beginning to ask more questions and a shift in their understanding of what took place those many years ago - we all grew up in the '60s and remember the protest songs and so on, but many did not understand the significance of what was being said.
Onward to the Vinh Moc tunnels, north of the DMZ. This was a great experience for Jean and Mike - the tunnel complex housing living quarters for the villagers after the US had obliterated their village, complete with a maternity 'ward' (a small annex) in which 17 children were born and still survive, the 'meeting room' and the 'family rooms', also small annexes in which it would impossible for me to lie down let alone a family to live (in my view). Over 300 villagers lived in these tunnels for years and one who spent 10 continuous days underground - something we could not comprehend. We had to be in awe of their commitment to their cause.
Then to Khe Sanh Combat Base, seeing the vast defoliated areas along the way as a result of the 20 million gallons of Agent Orange (Dioxin) that had been dropped by the US and still causes genetic disorders and cancers in the children of those who were exposed to it. I knew before, and saw again that the US didn't 'get it' in their 'defence' of South Vietnam. A new museum has been built at Khe Sanh, but the exhibited helicopters, tank, cannon and shell casings have all been imported for the purpose, but its military significance is still not lost - seen as a possible Dien Bien Phu (defeat of the French by the Viet Minh in 1954 that gave rise to the division of the country) for the US, the US threw everything at its defence to avoid a similar turning point, not realising that it was a distraction for the main Tet Offensive of '68 attacks on many other bases throughout S. Vietnam and a near collapse. Afterwards, they realised it had no significant military importance and cleared it! But, 500 Americans and many more Vietnamese died and 100,000 tonnes of bombs were dropped in the process.
A visit to a Paco minority tribe village was very interesting with the old ladies smoking their pipes while the children and animals roamed freely. Stilt houses provided very basic accommodation and the children had very dirty clothing and probably no schooling, because they have less rights than indigenous Vietnamese, in common with parallel situations I have seen in China and northwest Vietnam.
Finally we had a look at the Dakrong Bridge. It's really just a suspension bridge and not really of any great proportion, but it's not the same bridge I saw in '98 as that one, built by the Cubans in 1975, fell down in 2000 due to rust!
Burleigh Tours seems to be called Burleigh Boot camp now!
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