Dominica 4

Portsmouth is in the northeast corner of the island and hosts Fort Shirley, an old British fort. Not like Portsmouth at home, of course, but the naval link was there because of a major battle fought between the French and British navies that ended in the transfer of Dominica into British hands as a result. It is also the area of the Pirates of the Caribbean 2 and 3 film sets of Johnny Depp fame. We drove up high into a volcano crater on what seemed to be a fairly new road, well worth the trip, before we stopped of at Indigo, an art gallery and home of a French roots artist. She came here, after time in two other islands, met her husband and set up home and gallery in the bush in an incredibly rustic building of natural materials, together with a tree house. Their son lives in another nearby. Orlando Bloom, of Pirates’, spent a lot of time there and is featured in her Visitors’ Book. He also got the family access to the film set and there are several photos of them with the lead actors in costume. No photos of her place were allowed, which was quite understandable but also a shame not to be able to show it to others.

We found Batibou Beach for a quick dip and then No 1 Lookout, with its fine vertical drop elevated loo, not quite of 5-star standard, but carrying a risk of falling in to unknown depth! Mark laid on another fine dinner to top off the day, as we watched fireflies in the trees, listened to the ocean and looked at lights in Martinique and a cruise liner bound for Barbados, before he played a few numbers on the piano. Quite idyllic!

Lastly, on the morning of our departure, we scrambled down to the rock beach below the hotel, rather hot and demanding for me, an adventure for Jean!

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Dominica has many waterfalls although some are less accessible than others. First, we went to Emerald Pool, a modest fall with a crystal clear pool. A short walk afterwards found a viewpoint that gave an appreciation of the lush landscape and a view of the Atlantic in the distance. Next came a more serious clamber to Sari Sari Falls, crossing the river a couple of times, steep slopes and cautious steps. But, the reward was a 300’ waterfall that is encountered suddenly rounding a corner. The near pot-hole access precluded my more generous bulk, but Jean and guide Antonio managed to squeeze through it to get right up to it. The water was crystal clear and is the source for bottle water. Jean refilled but was later rather miffed that I had managed to sneak an earlier quick widdle in a side pool upstream while waiting for them to return from the fall! It was a double whammy as she was also beginning to feel the influence of the running water herself and her next opportunity was still someway off!

We stopped at a very rocky beach near the area where turtles come ashore to lay their eggs, and took a drive on some very steep roads through a high cutting near the south of the island. Dominica is the highest of the Caribbean islands and has many hills that make driving a continuum of twists and turns up, down and around the contours. The road surface is fairly good in the main, but some of the pot-holes you could bungee jump into!

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Next morning, things came good – the hire car turned up on time, luggage turned up at the airport and we were able to combine a trip to pick it up with a tour of the northeast corner of Dominica. It is incredibly lush and plants that struggle to grow indoors in UK thrive in this climate. We walked down to some red sandstone rocks by the sea, dropped into Koko Nutz Beach Bar, where Nigel laid on a fine rum cocktail, and enjoyed the view of the beach with the almond trees in the foreground. We enjoyed a slow drive on the twisty and hilly roads, soaking up the scenery and visiting a couple of beaches as well as taking one along a ridge with steep inland and sea views on either side. Saw coconuts starting to grow after falling. Distances don’t relate to time here as the roads are so winding, but we had already slowed down to the pace of Dominica so it didn’t matter. Another fine dinner followed while listening to the sounds of the sea and the tree frogs.

Dominica 1

I recall advice from a past Company director – “Beware Euphoria, she’s a dirty bitch”! Following a trouble-free departure from the Nevis hotel, it was announced that our flight would be an hour late, actually nearer 1½, then we then noticed that the flight number on our boarding cards was not the same as our (confirmed) booking! Then I noticed we took off in the direction of St Kitts (opposite way to Antigua - another surprise coming I thought) and landed there to take on some more passengers! This further delay ate into the expected 3 hour stopover in Antigua, but we were still ok at that point. It was a Twin Otter, more suited for 14 children than some outsized adults, cosy or what, with some large indigenous bodies overflowing the edges of seats!

It was a bit of a pain to enter and exit Antigua immigration/customs just to retrieve our luggage, but I was (at that time anyway) heartened by the sight of it. Checking in for the next leg to Dominica, we were next told that the plane we had a (confirmed that morning) booking on was already full, but that we would transfer to one a little later. That too, however, was delayed and, when we finally got to Dominica, it was getting dark for the slow contour drive around the hilly spurs of the coast, missing quite a lot of walkers and stationary cars, we got to the hotel. But, the big but, our luggage was either in Antigua or Barbados, where the plane was heading for next. They say the airline, LIAT – Luggage In Another Terminal – yeah, but which one?

However, we were placated by a warm welcome at Beau Rive, a fine rum punch and a delicious dinner finished off with the best lime and ginger cheesecake I have ever tasted, yes, ever! Our host and owner explained that lost luggage was a common problem and loaned me 2 T-shirts, a toothbrush, some toothpaste, and the offer of some of his mother’s clothes for Jean if required! It’s only a 6 room hotel on the cliff, overlooking the sea and we were 2 of only 4 staying, brilliant! Brit Mark, ex-musician and song-writer, built the hotel 250 feet above the sea 9 years ago and really looks after his guests with local fruits and traditional dishes, having fallen in love with the island on a visit some time ago.

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Our last day was a lazy one on the beach and turned out to have the best weather of the whole visit – the clouds cleared after a shower, the humidity dropped and the sky was blue, plus we saw the mountain top clearly for the first time. Appropriately, a couple of cocktails were taken at the cabana before the day was out!

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It was a lovely setting by the beach, but did the heavens open or what! The overhead awning closed just as we were getting well ‘spotted’ by the rain, but when it really started it fell in tropical style. It blew through and the wind was still blowing strongly so much of the ground was already dry by the time we left, but the tree frogs seemed even more vocal than normal on our walk back. In the morning, I had been persuaded to join an early nature ‘hike’ but I was glad that I did as our guide was informed, interesting, funny, and educational.

Then we took a return trip to St Kitts, with a short stop there. Passing the channel between St Kitts and Nevis, the wind was quite strong and the sea lightly choppy, so spray was thrown over the top giving us a cooling dowsing! Basseterre, the capital, didn’t seem that big, does have some nice buildings, but we did enjoy Independence Square, a monument to the cessation of slavery, which hosts a fine Catholic Church and colonial style building. I also got a good shot of two redheads, one a Flamboyant Tree, the national symbol of Nevis and, we guess, St Kitts. On return, it was time for a cocktail, again, and it was ever so slightly good! Well down the list now.

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It was a rather random dip into the cocktail list yesterday, so order had to be restored to the sampling process today, Wednesday. After a walk up around the golf course, part of the resort – I went part way then watched the scenery and golf while Jean walked up to the top of Mahogany Hill - we then adjourned to the beachside bar to start at the top of the list – a refreshing El Fresco with stacks of citrus a rather good thirst quencher. To the beach brought sun, several dips in the sea, and then the wind got up blowing sand about after a couple of hours, so what could we do but withdraw to a cabana nearby to proceed further down the list – well you have to don’t you? It was uplifting to find that the list continues onto a second page, so more to go, and they’re all good so far! St Kitts, visible in the background from the beach bar, is on the agenda for a visit tomorrow. Sadly, the scenic railway tour around it doesn't happen until Saturday after we've gone, so will be missed. Dinner on the beach tonight, hopefully without too much sand blowing!

Nevis 1

After a final spell around the Dockyard, we took a small Beechcraft plane from Antigua to Nevis, flying time all of 17 mins, with Tiger Woods’ twin brother as our co-pilot, climbing to 6,000 feet then commencing the descent immediately! A short taxi ride later, we were at the Four Seasons resort on the west side of this small island, being well looked after by the very friendly and welcoming staff. It’s very US-centric in style and occupation, not too busy and rather nice!

Pinney’s Beach is not quite the white sands of some of Antigua’s best, being partly volcanic, but is very pleasant nonetheless. A lazy, rather cloudy, day on it was appropriately marked with a Pinney’s Paradise cocktail of Mango, local rum and a touch of Grenadine before smartening to endure the Management’s cocktail session by the pool before dinner.

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Touring the island, guided by driver Valentine, we stopped at various points including Devil’s Bridge, from where wonderful colours in the water inside a reef, are just visible in the background. Then to the largest of the sugar plantations, Betty’s Hope, to see the large windmill structure used to crush the sugar cane, one of many on the island. We ended up for sunset and beyond at Shirley Heights where, on a clear day, you can see Guadeloupe from the cliff tops. Valentine found a commanding view from a protruding rock on the cliff top! Then we moved to another part above English and Falmouth Harbours for party time! A steel band, the best I’ve ever heard, accompanied a BBQ and was then followed by another excellent jam session by others after the sun set. The view across the harbours was stunning as the light changed, our hotel being clearly visible in Nelson’s Dockyard. A very enjoyable finale in Antiqua. And, who says this fella can't take a gal to the best places in town for a good lunch?